Summer Climbing North America - 2002 |
In early July, my family and I headed back to the States. Principal goal: to inflict three weeks of non-stop grandchildren on my parents. Thanks to my folks' and my wife's understanding, however, I was also able to scoot out for two separate short climbing trips. (My wife, I should mention, is a saint, as well as being a serious babe.) First was two days in the Gunks, July 11 and 12... I took the bus up from NYC (a.k.a., the center of the universe), and Jim, my partner for the visit, met me near the New Paltz bus station. His vehicle - the biggest pickup truck on planet earth. Only pride prevented me from demanding a belay up to the passenger seat. (I first met Jim when he came to Tokyo for a conference and looked me up for a little cragging. The weather gods did not cooperate and we ended up in a gym, but luck ran our way this time in New York.) I hadn't been to the Gunks since I was a beginner, following Diamond Sports guide Paul Curran around like a baby duck. So I was a tad intimidated this time, though I did my best to hide it. Voice quaking and hands shaking, I proposed sticking mostly with moderate classics, allegedly to maximize my limited time to enjoy the Gunks "experience". (I didn't quite get down on my knees and beg, but it was damn close.) Jim showed mercy by sending me up the first pitch of Doubleissima (5.7, maybe?), after which he took over and linked pitches two and three of Directissima (5.9), up to the High E ledge. From there, I led the classic last pitch of High Exposure (5.6). The sequence below shows Jim leading the traverse and following crux on Directissima. |
Here's me, following the Directissima arete (pitch three, according to the guidebook). Thanks to Jim for the snap. |
And here's me again, snapped by Jim on the High E ledge while racking up and trying to look confident before starting up the final pitch of High Exposure to pull "the move". The move is famous in gunks lore, and basically consists of crouching down under a roof, reaching blindly up and right, latching a hefty jug and stepping out onto an very exposed face. Gorgeous and exciting, but by no means impossible. From there, fun and moderate face climbing leads to the top of the cliff. |
Jim took the beautiful shot below from the High E ledge. In it, an unkown climber is at work on the 5.7 first pitch of Modern Times. |
Our next route was CCK Direct (5.9). Here's Jim leading up toward the crux roof, which features some spicy thin moves with the roof looming overhead. |
Next lead was mine, and Jim pointed me at Never Never Land (5.10a). I somewhat regret not having a picture, since it was my first lead of a Gunks 5.10, but I ended up taking a hang at the route's single bolt to de-pump and figure out the crux move, so maybe it's just as well... Jim then demonstrated how it's really done, leading J'Accuse (5.10b), with its spooky, unprotected opening moves. On the right, Jim glances down after getting his first gear on J'Accuse. How can he look so calm?! I finished off our first day with a lead of Absurdland (5.9), a beautiful pitch of which again we have no picture. Then we headed to the famous Bacchus for a quick beer and food. Jim had arranged the spare bedroom of his friend Bert, a Gunks local (and one of the original Vulgarians) for me for the night, so good talk and old stories were followed by a shower and a real bed. Luxury. Jim - hardman that he is - elected to sleep in the camper-bed of the pickup Queen Mary. |
The next morning, after correcting our cholesterol deficiencies with eggs, buttered toast and other sundries, we headed for cliffs. Jim took the first pitch of Arrow in order to give me a crack at the classic second pitch, with its final bolted crux of gleaming white slab. I was so absorbed in the climbing that I cruised right past the first bolt. Got to the second, clipped it, and thought to myself, "Damn, that was a fair runout for a 5.8!" Then I looked down. "Duhhhh...". Here's Jim following the second pitch. |
We rapped back down to the GT ledge and Jim led the second pitch of Three Doves (5.8+). Then we rapped to the ground to meet up with Jim's friends John and Tom. Jim and I climbed the first pitch of Three Doves (my lead, 5.8) and then crossed over for the second pitch of Annie Oh! (Jim's lead, 5.8) which allowed us to get some shots of John and Tom on Three Doves. On the right and below are various shots of Three Doves - first Jim leading the lower section of pitch two, then John leading below the pitch two crux and Tom cleaning the crux. |
I note in passing that Jim went further toward securing his "best host on the planet" title by arranging a ride for me back into the city with John and Tom - thanks guys! But that was for later. First, we rapped down and, after a short stroll Jim aimed me at Bold-ville (5.8). There are two things I should mention here about arching corner cracks: (a) I can't climb them worth a damn and (b) wherever I go, my partner (no matter who it is) seems to point me at one. Well, I didn't fall off, but let's just say I'm glad no one snapped an action shot - it wasn't pretty, and I came down so pumped I could barely move. This worked out fine, because I was able to take temporary shelter as a belay slave, while Jim, Tom and John had fun on The Spring (5.9), The Fall (5.11a) and The Winter (5.10d). Below are two shots of Jim leading The Winter. Don't ask me what his feet are on - even standing right there I couldn't see a damn thing. |
For our final route of the day, and the cap on my 2002 Gunks visit, Jim gave me the lead on Double Crack (5.8), and it couldn't have been any better. I really wish I had a photo, because the route runs up a steep, featured, multi-colored wall that just begs to be climbed. Unfortunately, I was out of film. Without the optional belay at mid-height the route runs 150 feet, and by the time I got to the top my arms were screaming. But what a fabulous route to close with. We followed it with goodbyes, and I luxuriated in my comfortable ride home, daydreaming about a return visit someday soon.... and about my upcoming trip to the Adirondacks and Canada.... ....Thanks to Bert, John and Tom and, most especially, to Jim! |
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Click here for page two, covering summer 2002 climbing in the Adirondacks and Laurentians |
